Do Shampoos for Hair Loss Work? What They Can and Can’t Do

Over-the-counter shampoos for thinning hair promise thicker, fuller strands just by switching up your lather-and-rinse routine.

Can a shampoo actually stop any of this? Experts have some thoughts about what these products can and can’t do.

“There really is no great scientific evidence that a shampoo can help grow hair faster, longer, or thicker,” says Emmy Graber, MD, the president of the Dermatology Institute of Boston, a private practice in Massachusetts.

That doesn’t mean your shampoo doesn’t matter. Its main job is to clean the hair and scalp, which can help create a healthier environment for normal hair growth. Shampoos formulated to treat scalp issues like dandruff and inflammation can boost hair health too.

“Some shampoos contain ingredients like conditioning polymers, proteins, or volumizing agents that can coat the hair shaft and make the hair look and feel thicker,” says Marisa Garshick, MD, a dermatologist at Manhattan Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery and a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at NewYork Presbyterian Weill Cornell Medical Center in New York City. “This can give the appearance of more volume without increasing density.”

“The shorter contact time as opposed to something left on the scalp like a lotion or oil means limited penetration, and that difference in contact time is a limitation for shampoos as a therapy for hair loss,” says Bruce A. Brod, MD, a dermatologist and a clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania Perelman School of Medicine in West Philadelphia.

“Shampoos are a helpful adjunct, but I would not think of them as a mainstay of treatment,” he adds.

“This is a commonly recommended ingredient for those dealing with hair loss and it has the most evidence to support its use,” Dr. Garshick says

Ketoconazole may also have effects that are more directly related to male or female pattern hair loss (androgenetic alopecia). Some research suggests it may interfere with hormone activity that contributes to the gradual shrinking of hair follicles associated with these conditions.

“Saw palmetto and pumpkin seed oils have shown some benefit in studies, but those studies mostly tested pills or oils left on the scalp,” Dr. Brod says. “There is not good evidence that these ingredients offer benefits when used in shampoos.”

“Shampoos can be labeled as having rosemary in them even if it’s just the tiniest amount,” Graber says. “It might not be in concentrations high enough to actually stimulate hair growth.”

For thinning hair, the wrong shampoo can sometimes make matters worse. Some ingredients may simply work better for certain hair or scalp types than others, especially if your hair is already dry, fine, or fragile.

Sulfates These ingredients remove oil and buildup, but they have the potential to leave delicate strands more prone to breakage, making hair seem less full.

“Silicones can help to smooth the hair shaft, but the concern would be to ensure there’s not too much buildup on the scalp, which can lead to inflammation and irritation,” Garshick says.

If a shampoo leaves your scalp itchy, red, or inflamed, it may be worth switching formulas, since ongoing scalp inflammation can potentially contribute to hair shedding, Brod says.

Even if you’re experiencing issues, you can help restore your hair's health by choosing the right shampoo and using it appropriately.

Get the Best Shampoo for Your Specific Hair and Scalp Issues

“Start by figuring out if your scalp is itchy, flaky, or irritated,” Brod says. “If that’s the case, look for a shampoo with ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione, or salicylic acid to calm that down first. If your hair is fine or fragile, choose a gentle formula and follow with a conditioner to cut down on breakage.”

Shampoo Regularly

Pair Your Shampoo With a Leave-In Hair Loss Treatment If Needed

“A shampoo can support scalp health and hair appearance, but it should not be your only plan if you’re experiencing hair loss,” Brod says.

It’s particularly important to seek medical care if you develop sudden or patchy hair loss or scalp pain, discoloration, or scarring. These symptoms can sometimes point to conditions such as scalp infections, alopecia areata (an autoimmune disease that causes patchy hair loss), or scarring alopecia, in which inflammation damages and eventually destroys hair follicles.